Diary of a French Girl in the USA [Week 1-2: ORCAS ISLAND]

Words + Images by Mona Plun

Preconceptions

For a French person who has never been to the United States of America before, this part of the world is considered as an entirely different universe. We are taught in school and through television that the U.S. is a modern society in which the notions of politics and money are far from what we value in France. 

Huge buildings, millions of people gathered in several states, this is the first idea that came to my mind before coming to this place. For me, those kinds of big cities that we learned about in school were places in which individuals were made virtually invisible, one of many “ants” preoccupied by an overly busy life.

However, after setting foot on Orcas Island in Washington State my preconceptions began to change. 

The island's name in itself conjured mysteries. Was that because it was wildly remote, only reachable by boat or seaplane? Or because it is one of many islands in the region that were carved from gigantic melting glaciers that traveled down from the north ten thousand years ago? Arriving at night by ferry and driving through forests only amplified this idea of mystery. The landscapes make me think of fantasy and sci-fi movie scenes. I especially love this hidden footbridge in the middle of Cascade Lake (see photo below), and I enjoy paddle boarding under it.

After having spent a whole week on this amazing island, I now understand why the two writers hosting me settled here. The island can provide anyone with inspiration. I have traveled to many places in Europe but I have never experienced this sense of peacefulness, a place in which you can truly build a connection with nature. In fact, the original indigenous settlers of the islands (the Lummi tribe who have fished and lived here for thousands of years) do not even have a word for “nature” because they do not see themselves as separate from it.

The photo above is my favorite among all the ones I took here. This special atmosphere that emanates from it with the trees in the mist fascinates me. This represents my favorite time here for walks, accompanied by the silence of the place.

A realm of nature

The island gives one the sensation of being able to glimpse a realm of nature in which humans are only occasionally invited and are tolerated by the original beings of the island, which appear to me as the animals and sea life (I mean deer, Orcas, Whales, Eagles, Trees and so on). The houses seem embedded in the forest, and a feeling of union between the environment and the people truly shows a certain relationship based on profound respect and community. People gather at charity events and donate in order to help and improve the community. For instance, the citizens create many festivals in to bring art to the island.

For a young girl fascinated by marine biology, I was thrilled to track Orcas from a boat and discover the biggest Starfish I’ve ever seen!

A visit to a neighboring island with my host sister, the editor of Girl Folk!

A community

After having spent time with my host sister, Gray, and her family and having asked plenty of questions about life on the island, the most important and coveted element on the island is that of Community. A harmonized place in which people help each other and the many charities and inspire others to believe in themselves and in their dreams. As a young French person, I can say that this kind of life and being part of such a community is not common. I wonder if this sense of community and giving is because this community exists on an island with a small close-knit community. I wonder that because the only place I have experienced this feeling before was on the Isle of Batz, a little exotic island of four hundred inhabitants in France where my grandparents live; so I guess that sometimes living on an island gives you the feeling of being part of a special shared space that has no direct link with the mainland.

Even the mailboxes are so different than in France!

I was particularly moved by the kindness of the person in the photo below, Bob Susol, whom I met for the first time when he was helping his artist wife Kandis Susol hang her art. He is a local farmer known for his heritage fruit trees, and he shared a paper bag of plums from his orchard with me. 

THE FARM TOUR

In October, Orcas Island and other San Juan Island farmers open up their operations so that anyone can stop by and learn about their work. At Lum Farm, the farmers had presentations that included milking goats, showing what products are made from the farm, and more. This event was also an opportunity to interact with the animals. (The goats, chickens, cows, horses and pigs. ) Girl Meet Dirts, famous jam and shrubs company around the world is based on Orcas Island and was also present showcasing their products which are only made from the fruit of local heritage trees of Orcas Island. This tour is very interesting and allows people to discover how to run a farm and how products are locally made. It was possible to try samples of ice cream made from goat milk, goat cheese and even fruits/vegetables.

I had never hugged baby goats before! I highly recommend it.

The Salmon Hatchery

Eco-volunteering at the “Long Live the Kings” Salmon Hatchery

We visited the Salmon Hatchery known as Long Live The Kings where I was able to learn how the regional salmon are studied and how the staff and volunteers work in order to protect salmon in the region. Created in 1986, this organization tries to restore the ecological impact from fishing activity and climate changes. Director Mike O'Connell welcomed us down the water to show us how the salmon farm works. Their life is controlled and divided between salt water from the ocean and pure water from the ponds and the tanks of the laboratory. Mike explained to us that their work here is to help with the development of salmon in the Salish Sea, during their life and the spawning. After that, we had the opportunity to visit the laboratory in which different species of salmon are preserved and studied.


A few weeks later, I came back for the salmon spawning with my host dad, Sam, Mike and some volunteers. I never thought one day I would find myself mixing sperm and salmon eggs!!! A curious but fascinating experience. Mike offered to open the salmon to extract the eggs but I preferred to bring them from the water, because killing them, no thanks!! The salmon were literally the size of my arm. In the picture above, these are the male whose sperm had just been extracted.


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